lumogeny

Styles / Pictorialist

Pictorialism

1885–1930. An international amateur movement that took shape in the late 1880s. Also called Pictorial photography or Art photography.

Where the lights stand
seen from above1 open sky2 rim, highcameraSchematic, not to scale
  1. Key: the open sky, all around and above, soft.
  2. Rim or hair light: the sun, from behind, to the camera’s right, high, hard.

Open shadows: bright surroundings (walls, ground, sky) fill them; no reflector needed. Haze: fog or mist, or a haze machine indoors.

Schematic, not to scale: worked out from the style’s choices. No set-up of this style has been rendered yet.

Where you have seen it

The Fountain

Clarence H. White, The Fountain, 1905/06. Art Institute of Chicago, Alfred Stieglitz Collection. Source: The Fountain at Art Institute of Chicago

And here

La Petite Princesse "Clair de Lune" (Vrouw zit op een boomstam boven het water)

Constant Puyo, La Petite Princesse "Clair de Lune", 1890–1910. Rijksmuseum, Amsterdam. Source: La Petite Princesse "Clair de Lune" (Vrouw zit op een boomstam boven het water) at Rijksmuseum

Photographs made to be art on the model of painting: landscapes in mist, women and children in gardens and woods, portraits, nudes and allegories, all seen softly. Focus is diffused, contrast is low and tones are warm or tinted, and the print is a crafted object: platinum with long, gentle greys, or gum, oil and bromoil pigment worked by hand. Detail gives way to mood. The pictures were shown framed in salons and reproduced in photogravure, by photographers set on proving that a photograph could carry feeling.

How the look is made

  1. Diffuse the focus: use a soft or uncorrected lens and let edges melt rather than resolve every detail.
  2. Choose atmosphere: mist, rain, dusk, backlight or window light that flattens forms into tonal masses.
  3. Compose like a painter: a figure off-centre against an empty field, planes flattened, a mood or an idea rather than a fact.
  4. Make the print by hand: platinum for long soft greys, gum or oil pigment for brushed tone, dodging and reworking until each print is unique.
  5. Keep contrast low and tones warm or tinted; avoid crisp blacks, hard detail and anything that looks like a snapshot.

Shoot sheet for your kit

Fill in your camera, lenses and lights, and the sheet says which light plays each part, what to work around and where to start on your camera. Without a kit it starts on a full-frame camera.

Step 1

Light

1 open sky2 rim, highcameraSchematic, not to scale
  1. Key: the open sky, all around and above, soft.

  2. Rim or hair light: the sun, from behind, to the camera’s right, high, hard.

  • Open shadows: bright surroundings (walls, ground, sky) fill them; no reflector needed.
  • Haze: fog or mist, or a haze machine indoors.
Shadow edges
Shadows that fade gradually from light to dark, cast by a large or diffused light: a window, a softbox, a cloudy sky.
Shadow depth
Shadows kept light and full of detail by a reflector, a fill light, bounce or bright surroundings (a low lighting ratio, up to about 3:1: the shadow side at most a stop and a half darker).

How the style is lit

  • Contre-jour daylight through mist, rain or haze, so forms dissolve into the air.
  • Soft window or porch light on figures in a domestic interior or garden.
  • Twilight and moonlit scenes in long exposures.

This plan is worked out from the style’s choices, so it is drawn as a schematic. One way to get the light, not a record of how any photograph was lit.

Step 2

Lens and settings

Start at

65 mmf/21/250 sISO 100

On a full-frame camera: the same depth of field and exposure as the style’s own numbers, in the same light. Then meter and adjust.

  • The style’s f/7 on 9 × 12 cm gives about the depth of field of f/2 on full frame.
Then
45–90 mm · f/4.5–f/11 · 1/25–5 s · ISO 5–25 on 9 × 12 cm, documented. Lens data documented: Pinkham & Smith soft-focus lenses at f/6 and f/4.5, Kühn's Staeble Anachromat lenses of 17–31 cm on a 9 × 12 cm camera. Work near full aperture for softness; the times and plate speeds (about ISO 5–25) are inferred.
Focus
A soft glow around highlights; edges never quite sharp.
Angle
The camera at the height of a standing person or of the subject.
Distance
Whole figures and their immediate surroundings.
Balance
The subject placed off-centre, balanced against open space.
Depth
Depth collapsed into pattern and flat shapes. The scene doubled, layered or split by its reflection in a mirror, a shop window, water or a polished surface.
Duration
An unmoving scene, exposed slowly and carefully.
Step 3

Direct

Turn faces from the lens: eyes lowered to a book, a child or the water, or gazing into the distance, often in profile or walking away. Keep bodies relaxed and unhurried: a woman crouching by a fountain, two sewing on a step, a mother holding her child. Allegorical figures in robes lean, kneel or recline to act out an idea.

Head & gaze
Looking down, or eyes shut: inward, modest, asleep or praying. Eyes off the frame, past the camera or into the distance, as if lost in thought.
Line & energy
Loose and unforced, as people stand and sit when they forget the camera, whether caught or coaxed by prompts.
Without a pose
No people at all, or people so small or far off that their pose does not read (hands alone are Hands alone).
The set-up
A scene staged and directed like a film still or a painting.
Step 4

Style the set

Pale, simple dresses in white or cream, hair loose or in a soft knot, no visible make-up; flowing robes and drapery for allegories. Gardens, porches, woods and the sitters' own rooms, lightly arranged so they look unplanned; landscapes, canals and streets are left as found.

Clothes
Simple, solid, unbranded clothes chosen so they do not distract from the face.
How much is styled
A few small touches (a tidied table, a straightened collar, a chosen outfit) that still look unplanned.
Step 5

Finish

Monochrome
Low contrast and gentle greys. A monochrome image tinted sepia, brown, selenium purple or cyanotype blue.
Early processes
Matte prints with long, soft grey scales. Gum bichromate, bromoil and similar: hand-worked, painterly prints.
Post-production
Marks made by hand on the negative or the print. Areas lightened and darkened by hand in printing.
Shown as
Each picture stands on its own.
Shown in
Large prints on the wall, like paintings.

Stay away from deep focus, straight print, hyper-detailed, snapshot, direct on-camera flash, saturated colour, high-contrast black & white, black shadows, hard-edged shadows, laughing and awkward & in-between.

Photographs that define it

From open collections, shown whole with their credits. Later photographs are linked, not shown, while they are in copyright.

In de duinen bij Noordwijk (In the dunes near Noordwijk)

Heinrich Kühn, In the dunes near Noordwijk, 1897–1904. Rijksmuseum, Amsterdam, purchased with the support of the VSBfonds. Source: In de duinen bij Noordwijk (In the dunes near Noordwijk) at Rijksmuseum

View of the Kolkje Canal, Amsterdam

Robert Demachy, View of the Kolkje Canal, Amsterdam, 1907–14. Rijksmuseum, Amsterdam, purchased with the support of the VSBfonds. Source: View of the Kolkje Canal, Amsterdam at Rijksmuseum

With other styles

The opposite: Straight photography. Straight photography began by rejecting soft focus and the worked print; shoot a pictorialist subject in mist, then print it once soft and once sharp and unmanipulated, to choose which voice the brief needs.

The opposite: Daguerreotype portraiture. The two are opposite poles of detail: the daguerreotype resolves every hair and pictorialism dissolves it, so never mix the two in one image.

Pairs with Light and airy. Light-and-airy wedding work shares the soft backlight, low contrast and pale dresses of the pictorialist garden; borrow pictorialism's haze and warm platinum greys for a quieter, less pastel version.

Sources

  1. Pictorialism, Wikipedia: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pictorialism (about 1885 to 1915, declining after 1920; international spread; the Linked Ring, Photo-Club de Paris, Photo-Secession; members named; bromoil, carbon, gum bichromate, oil and platinum; soft-focus lenses and hand-worked prints; tonalism; turn to straight photography)
  2. Linked Ring, Wikipedia: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Linked_Ring (founded May 1892; Photographic Salon from 1893; gum bichromate and oil pigment; members)
  3. Photo-Secession, Wikipedia: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Photo-Secession (founded 17 February 1902 in New York; members; aim 'to advance photography as applied to pictorial expression'; dissolved 1917)
  4. Camera Work, Wikipedia: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Camera_Work (50 issues, 1903–1917; photogravures tipped in by Stieglitz; last issue given to Paul Strand's unsoftened work)
  5. Robert Demachy, Wikipedia: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Robert_Demachy (co-founded the Photo-Club de Paris in 1888; gum bichromate from 1894; Rawlins oil from 1904, bromoil by 1911; Puyo; Linked Ring 1895)
  6. Heinrich Kühn, Wikipedia: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Heinrich_K%C3%BChn (multi-layer gum bichromate; autochromes from 1907)
  7. Peter Henry Emerson, Wikipedia: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Peter_Henry_Emerson (Naturalistic Photography, 1889; differential focus; platinum and photogravure books)
  8. The Fountain, Clarence H. White, Art Institute of Chicago: https://www.artic.edu/artworks/66755 (atmospheric, softly focused platinum prints; family members staged in apparently spontaneous scenes)
  9. Midnight Lake George, Edward Steichen, Art Institute of Chicago: https://www.artic.edu/artworks/66698 (gum bichromate over platinum, 1904: a night scene, layered pigment over platinum)
  10. Pinkham & Smith Visual Quality lenses, CameraQuest: https://cameraquest.com/pinkham_and_smith_visual_quality.htm (Series I and II semi-achromats at f/6, Series III at f/4.5, suggested by F. Holland Day and Alvin Langdon Coburn)
  11. Semi-Achromatic lens, 16-inch, George Eastman Museum: https://collections.eastman.org/objects/70638/semiachromatic-lens-16inch (a 16-inch Pinkham & Smith semi-achromatic lens engraved as made expressly for Alvin Langdon Coburn)
  12. Heinrich Kühn-Stegemann Studienkamera, Leitz Photographica Auction: https://www.leitz-auction.com/en/Heinrich-Kuehn-Stegemann-Studienkamera/AI-25-30331 (the 9 × 12 cm monorail camera designed for Kühn and used by him until 1944, c. 1925, with Dr. Staeble Anachromat Kühn lenses of 17, 20, 25 and 31 cm and multiple-hole aperture discs)
  13. The Photographs of Heinrich Kühn: Research Project on Artistic Technique, Gruber, Topics in Photographic Preservation 14 (2011), AIC: https://resources.culturalheritage.org/pmgtopics/2011-volume-fourteen/14-31_Gruber.html (Kühn had a camera and a lens, the Imagon, developed to his specifications)
  14. Colour photography in the Asia Pacific region, Robert Deane: https://mail.photo-web.com.au/robertdeane/papers/Colour-photography.htm (autochromes some fifty times slower than contemporary monochrome emulsions, one second at f/8 in full sun; used here to estimate monochrome plate speed around 1907)

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